Looking at a 2011 Forester with 160k miles. Trying to find something affordable that won’t die on me right away. If you have one, how long has yours lasted? What parts should I expect to replace?
I have a 2011 Forester. Either the previous owner put a lot of work into it, or you’ll end up spending a good amount keeping it running.
I bought mine with 50k miles, now I’m nearing 100k. Subaru uses a lot of cheap parts that tend to wear out between 50-100k miles. Other Japanese brands usually go longer before needing things like shocks, bushings, and rotors.
If the seller has records showing:
- Oil consumption test or any related repairs (Google it if you haven’t heard of this issue)
- Suspension work (shocks, control arm bushings, etc.)
- Brake rotors and fluid changes
- Transmission and differential fluid service
- AC compressor, alternator, and other major components
- Regular oil changes
I wouldn’t buy an older Subaru unless it has good maintenance records. Personally, I’d go for an old Toyota or Honda instead. They tend to last longer with fewer problems.
@Willie
I had a 2018 Forester. Took really good care of it, but things started going downhill fast at 60k miles. AC failed—expensive fix that wasn’t covered under warranty. CV axle needed replacing ($880), and the CVT transmission started making a weird whining noise.
Up until 60k miles, it was solid. Then it felt like it was falling apart. I traded it in for a Toyota RAV4 with a regular automatic transmission. Hoping it holds up better long-term since I’ll be retiring soon and don’t want surprise repair bills.
@graceruth
That sucks. Hope the RAV4 works out better for you. Just stay on top of regular maintenance, and it should last.
Willie said:
@graceruth
That sucks. Hope the RAV4 works out better for you. Just stay on top of regular maintenance, and it should last.
Yeah, I always stay on top of maintenance, so fingers crossed!
@Willie
Subaru’s safety probably saved my life in a crash years ago, but I’ll never buy another one.
I had a 2011 Forester that burned through oil like crazy. The engine ran dry at 125k miles with no warning light, and I had to replace it. The replacement engine had a head gasket failure within a year. The next owner just told me that the third engine now has a bent piston.
It also got terrible gas mileage toward the end—22 mpg on the highway, sometimes 15 mpg around town. I was putting in a quart of oil every 1,000 miles.
I spent about $3,000 per year on repairs after the warranty ended: suspension, tie rods, starter, brakes, battery harness, and so on. Most of those repairs were crazy expensive. The dealer wanted $500 just to replace the wiring harness, so I did it myself.
@Jori
They are definitely safe cars and great in bad weather. But I wouldn’t recommend owning one past the warranty unless you do your own repairs.
Willie said:
@Jori
They are definitely safe cars and great in bad weather. But I wouldn’t recommend owning one past the warranty unless you do your own repairs.
Exactly. My first Subaru was a 1998 Forester, and it lasted 230k miles. But that one also needed an engine rebuild at 145k.
I replaced it with a 2000 Outback, which was nothing but problems. It was totaled in a head-on collision with a semi-truck in 2015. The car was destroyed, but I survived, so I bought another Subaru—a 2011 Forester. That was a mistake. Three engines later, I’m done with them.
@Jori
How much did you sell it for? I have a 2011 Forester, and I’m debating selling it instead of putting more money into repairs.
Hale said:
@Jori
How much did you sell it for? I have a 2011 Forester, and I’m debating selling it instead of putting more money into repairs.
$3,500. But we gave the buyer a 30-day guarantee. Ten days after they bought it, the exhaust pipe fell off. Luckily, the catalytic converter was fine, or it would have been a $2,000 repair. Still cost them $700.
I bought my 2012 Forester at 160k miles. Now at 221k, and it’s still going strong. I’ve put some money into it, but nothing unexpected for a high-mileage car.
Major repairs so far:
- CV axle
- Catalytic converter
- AC compressor
- Brakes, rotors, and alignment
- Head gasket leak ($3,500 repair)
- Rear exhaust system (rusted out)
- Suspension work (control arms, CV axles, etc.)
Even with all that, I’d still buy another one. It’s been solid in snow, handles well off-road when camping, and is way cheaper than a new car payment. If you’re okay with occasional repairs, it’s worth considering.
@Monty
That’s a lot of work!
I bought my 2011 in 2020 at 55k miles, had the short block replaced at 90k to fix oil burning, and I’m hoping to hit 200k.
Willie said:
@Monty
That’s a lot of work!
I bought my 2011 in 2020 at 55k miles, had the short block replaced at 90k to fix oil burning, and I’m hoping to hit 200k.
I got my 2011 with 240k km five years ago for $3,500. Now at almost 300k km, and it’s still running great.
I’ve replaced:
- Radiator
- CV axle
- Brakes and rotors
- Control arms
- Tires
- Spark plugs and sensors
- Exhaust work
- Suspension (struts, bushings, etc.)
I do my own repairs, so I’ve only spent about $4,800 in total. If you can fix things yourself, they’re worth keeping.
@Vic
Did you stick with stock control arms, or did you go aftermarket?
Willie said:
@Vic
Did you stick with stock control arms, or did you go aftermarket?
I used Mevotech control arms, but the ball joints failed after 20k km. The bushings are holding up, but I’d probably go with Moog or OEM next time.