Thinking about picking up a 2011 Forester 2.5X. Price seems decent, but I know these have some common issues. Is this a solid buy, or will I be dealing with a bunch of repairs? Would love to hear from people who own one
The price dropping makes me suspicious… could be a great deal, or there might be hidden problems.
Here’s a quick Forester guide:
Recent models:
SG (2002-2008)
SH (2009-2013)
SJ (2014-2018)
The older SG models had the EJ25 engine, known for head gasket issues and a timing belt. If the belt hasn’t been replaced, it can cause major damage if it fails. Later models switched to a timing chain, which lasts much longer.
SH models from 2009-2010 still had the EJ25 with the same gasket issues. The 2011-2013 models switched to the FB25 engine with a timing chain, but that came with new problems—mainly high oil consumption. Subaru had a warranty extension for excessive oil burning, but that has expired.
SJ models (2014-2018) still used the FB25 and had the same oil problems. They also had issues with the Thermo Control Valve (TCV), which can fail and lead to an expensive repair.
If you’re looking at one of these, ask the seller how often they checked the oil. If they hesitate or seem unsure, be cautious. These engines burn oil, and running them low can cause serious damage.
Another thing—Subaru’s suspension parts don’t last long. Struts and control arm bushings usually wear out around 60k miles, and wheel bearings can go before 100k. Replacing them isn’t cheap unless you do it yourself.
Check the AC too. The compressors are expensive to replace, but sometimes it’s just a valve or an O-ring that needs fixing.
Also, Subaru’s AWD system uses the rear brakes more than most cars, so check the condition of the rear rotors.
Ideally, you want a car with full service records, and if possible, buy directly from the owner. And no matter what, get it inspected by a mechanic before buying. Spending $150 on an inspection could save you thousands.
Personally, I don’t recommend keeping a Subaru long-term unless you plan on selling it before the warranty expires or doing your own repairs. They are great cars off the lot, but maintenance costs start adding up fast.
I bought my 2011 in 2021 with 55k miles. It was garage-kept and well maintained, but by 80k, I had to replace a rear strut after it wore out and ruined two tires. By 90k, it started burning a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. Subaru replaced the short block for $1,000 under their extended warranty, but I was just barely within the mileage limit. Now at 100k, I need new front struts and control arms. They are fun and safe, but they are not cheap to maintain.
@Harmon
This is really helpful… thanks. I found out the seller works at a used car dealership that advertises the lowest prices, so now I’m wondering if they even check these cars before selling them.
I do my own repairs, so that helps, but I’m not looking to spend $5k on a car and then another few grand fixing it up right away.
Really appreciate the info!
@Harmon
Thanks for this. I have a 2012 that’s getting close to 100k, and I’m going to use this as a checklist before I hit that mark.
Just replaced my AC compressor this summer, and yeah, mine burns oil in that weird way where it just disappears but doesn’t smoke or leak. I let it get too low once because I assumed the oil light would come on… learned my lesson when I heard knocking coming back from a camping trip.
I’m starting to worry about the head gasket since I had to replace one on my old ‘02 Outback. That car didn’t last much longer after that, mostly because it needed a bunch of suspension work too.
Just did brakes and rotors, but I still feel a wobble. Probably a wheel bearing or something. I know enough to notice problems, but not enough to fix them myself. Hoping to make it to 150k before needing anything major, but we’ll see. Thanks again for laying this all out.
@Abi
Is your head gasket actually leaking, or are you just worried about it?
If it’s not leaving oil on the ground, I wouldn’t stress about it. A little oil seepage is normal at this mileage.
That wobble—does it only happen when braking? If so, could be uneven rotors. If it happens all the time or at certain speeds, maybe a wheel balance issue or alignment problem.
If it’s just under braking, that’s odd since you just did rotors and pads. A bad wheel bearing usually makes a grinding noise, not a wobble. Struts can clunk over bumps but don’t usually cause a wobble. A worn-out control arm bushing or sway bar link could do it, though.
How long ago did you get the brake work done?
@Harmon
Brakes were done mid-summer. Before that, it was really bad—steering wheel would shake when braking at high speeds, and one rear caliper was frozen, so it pulled to one side.
After the brake job, all that rough stuff went away. But now, if I’m cruising at 70-80 mph, the steering wheel has a small jitter. Not terrible, but noticeable.
I don’t see any oil spots under the car, but I check the dipstick religiously now. I never go over my oil change interval anymore. Just didn’t expect it to burn oil this fast. Knew these years had oil issues, but I didn’t think it would be this bad.
I trust my mechanic, but he’s more of a general guy, not a Subaru specialist. Feels like he’s not fully aware of all the common issues.
@Abi
That high-speed wobble might just be the car being picky. Mine does the same thing between 65-70 mph and again above 80 mph.
Have you had the wheels balanced and an alignment done? Wouldn’t hurt to check—usually costs around $120-150.
Best thing is to keep an eye on it. If it gets worse, have a mechanic check it out.
@Harmon
That makes me feel better. I always get paranoid that I’m ignoring a problem, but maybe I’m just overthinking it.
I got an alignment last year with new tires, but it might be worth checking again. Appreciate all the help!
@Harmon
Quick question—if the engine was replaced due to oil consumption about 85k miles ago, would that make it a better buy? Seller has maintenance records from the previous owner and the dealership.
@Barbara
A replaced engine is good, but even rebuilt ones can still burn oil. Just assume it will need regular top-offs.
If you’re serious about it, take it to an independent mechanic and ask them to check the control arms, struts, and AC system.
That price seems really low in today’s market, so there’s probably something wrong with it. Could just be cosmetic, but definitely worth a closer look.