Whenever I search for older reliable AWD vehicles, I always come across CRVs, RAV4s, and Foresters. But I’ve seen people say that Subarus need a lot more maintenance.
I looked into CRVs and saw stuff like valve adjustments every couple years and changing the rear diff fluid yearly. Is a Subaru really worse than that?
I live on a rough road in BC and need something that can handle snow and mud. I’d rather get something older—nothing newer than 2010—so I can avoid electronics I can’t fix myself.
Any tips on what years or models to go for? What should I avoid? Around here, Subarus are usually cheaper than CRVs and RAV4s. People want $6k+ for early 2000s CRVs with over 275k on them.
Been over a week without a ride since I sold my truck. It’s getting annoying.
People say Subarus need a lot of maintenance, but they’re just less forgiving if you skip it. Maintenance isn’t that different from other cars in the same class.
2010 was the last year the Forester used the EJ engine. It has a few known issues, but they’re well documented and not too hard to fix. Probably the newest model that’s still pretty easy to work on.
Fitz said: @Flynt
I’d go with the EJ over the FB any day too.
I actually prefer the older ones, like the early 2000s. I like that boxy look. Any Forester year that’s known to be more reliable? My budget is about $5k, including whatever I need to fix from the previous owner.
@Baer
I’ve got a 2009 Forester, first year of the third gen. Got it with 55k, now it’s at 70k. Heated cloth seats, winter package, 5-speed manual. No issues in two years. Wouldn’t mind keeping it forever.
My 2010 Outback has about 130k now and I’ve had to spend a bit lately. About $3k on brakes and CVs (front and back). My shop has worked on our cars for years though, so I trust them. Rear diff sounds like it’s going too. Engine’s solid with regular oil changes. One power window doesn’t work—quoted $500. Another one acts up from the driver switch. But overall, car’s been great and handled rough winter roads like a champ.
@Zia
Sounds like a lot for 130k. I feel like by 2010 some parts started getting cheaper and more plastic. I kinda want something simpler like roll-up windows… easier to fix myself.
It’s wild how people complain about changing brakes, suspension, or plugs on cars with over 100k. That’s just normal wear.
Subarus before 2013 had some head gasket issues, but most were external oil leaks—not a huge deal. A proper fix with a multi-layer gasket usually solves it for good, unless you overheat the engine.
If the engine uses a timing belt, it has to be changed every 100k. If it breaks, the engine’s done. But it’s a few hours of work every 100k, so not bad.
The most important thing? Change your oil every 6-7k and check it often. Doing that will keep things running well.
@Vin
All sounds reasonable. I’ve never done a timing belt before, but I’ve done brakes and bearings. I’m not totally clueless so I figure I can learn the rest.
Baer said: @Vin
All sounds reasonable. I’ve never done a timing belt before, but I’ve done brakes and bearings. I’m not totally clueless so I figure I can learn the rest.
Yeah, it’s not too bad. Pads are just one step past an oil change. Rotors are one step past that.
Watch a few timing belt videos before trying it so you don’t get stuck with a bad guide.
Front bearings are easy. Rear ones are a pain without a press. Axles and plugs are doable, just tight spaces.
Get one with a timing chain instead of a belt. For Outbacks, that started in 2010. Not sure about Foresters.
I’ve got a 2011 and a 2012 Outback 3.6R—super reliable, but hard to find under $6k with decent mileage. I paid $6500 for my 2011 with 99k miles after six months of searching. If you see a deal like that, grab it fast.
DEONTE said:
How much do you usually drive? More driving = more maintenance.
15 min to work and back, occasional mountain trips for hunting and fishing, about 400km to other towns monthly, and one long road trip a year. Feels like a decent amount of driving.
