Hey all, I’ve been checking out older gen 2 Tundras, 2007-2012 models. I know the rust issues can be a thing, but these trucks I’m looking at have around 90k to 130k miles. Any specific issues with these years? All have the 5.7 engines and are RWD.
Edit: Thanks a lot for any help, guys!
When I was looking for mine, I started with how clean it was, checked under the body and engine area for any ticking or weird sounds, looked into its maintenance records, and took it for a test drive. Ended up finding one in great shape and it’s still running strong. I take it to the dealer for regular oil changes, and they let me know if anything’s due for repair.
I found mine at a Chevy dealer, surprisingly. The previous owner was military and had to deploy, so it was low-mileage and well-kept. Just trust your gut when choosing! Also, check for any overspray that could hint at prior body work (car fax doesn’t always catch it if repairs weren’t reported to insurance). Good luck, and share pics when you find one!
@Cole
Looked at the car fax – it’s a one-owner with 33 records. Only thing is it had three alignments, and I’m wondering if that’s a red flag.
Oswin said:
@Cole
Looked at the car fax – it’s a one-owner with 33 records. Only thing is it had three alignments, and I’m wondering if that’s a red flag.
What did they say about those alignments?
@Cole
Didn’t look into it closely, but they were about 30k miles apart. My brother-in-law thinks it could mean frame issues, but I don’t get how that’s connected.
Oswin said:
@Cole
Didn’t look into it closely, but they were about 30k miles apart. My brother-in-law thinks it could mean frame issues, but I don’t get how that’s connected.
If it has frame issues, you’ll definitely see it. Rot usually shows up in joints between the box and cab and can hit the suspension. Try tapping the frame with a hammer to see if it’s solid.
Guys really worry about the cam tower issue – you can see it through the front wheel wells. Sometimes what looks like leaking is just a bit of seepage. Also, check under the truck for any pink crust. Could be a water pump leak or even a more involved repair if it’s further back.
Watch out for the cam tower fix or get a model that wasn’t affected by it. I’m at 200k on my 2010, and all I’ve replaced was the water pump, thermostat, tires, and brakes. If you can, get a 4x4 – holds its value better than RWD.
@Donna
Not much need for 4x4 in my area. It rains a bit in winter, but that’s it. Planning on using it mostly to tow my boat and quad. Still, 4x4 would be cool.
Oswin said:
@Donna
Not much need for 4x4 in my area. It rains a bit in winter, but that’s it. Planning on using it mostly to tow my boat and quad. Still, 4x4 would be cool.
Does it ever snow in winter for you? Respect! And yeah, you’ll probably have an easier time finding a non-4x4 model too.
@Donna
Only snow we get is up in the mountains for a month or two, but I’d still go with snow tires since they make a big difference.
Oswin said:
@Donna
Only snow we get is up in the mountains for a month or two, but I’d still go with snow tires since they make a big difference.
Good idea! A couple of sandbags in the back could help for winter traction too. These are solid trucks – I’ve had two, and they really hold their value. Just got offered $15k for mine by my local Toyota dealer.
@Donna
Yeah, Tundras hold their value well. The one I’m looking at is $15,991 for a 2011 with 93k miles.