My mechanic friend might be able to help me soon with a slide hammer, but right now I’m completely stuck.
If anyone has tips on how to get this wheel bearing out, I’m listening.
We already tried hitting it with a sledgehammer, heating it, and prying at it. Still no luck.
I’m honestly ready to light some incense and hope that helps.
It’s an 08 Prius from the rust belt. Everything’s fused tight from years of salt and grime.
Toss the whole knuckle and hub. Get a used knuckle and move your hub onto that.
You usually need to pull the steering knuckle off and use a strong press to get the bearing out.
Finnley said:
You usually need to pull the steering knuckle off and use a strong press to get the bearing out.
I’m also in the rust belt. I managed to hammer mine out the same way.
Finnley said:
You usually need to pull the steering knuckle off and use a strong press to get the bearing out.
I’m also in the rust belt. I managed to hammer mine out the same way.
Yeah, sometimes brute force does the job
Finnley said:
You usually need to pull the steering knuckle off and use a strong press to get the bearing out.
Yep, remove the steering knuckle, throw it in a 20-ton press and it’ll come out. I actually messed up my arm using a slide hammer. Pinched a nerve and couldn’t use that arm for a week. Couldn’t even hold a drink. That’s how bad it gets with rust belt cars.
Trying to force it while still mounted can damage other parts like your ball joints or tie rods.
Finnley said:
You usually need to pull the steering knuckle off and use a strong press to get the bearing out.
Same experience here. Tried a slide hammer at first. Ended up just taking out the whole hub and knuckle and getting a shop to press the old bearing out and the new one in.
Finnley said:
You usually need to pull the steering knuckle off and use a strong press to get the bearing out.
I did exactly that. Slammed it with a big socket and hammer, used a torch—nothing. Even the shop had a hard time with their press. When reassembling, I cleaned everything up with a wire wheel and put as much anti-seize as I could everywhere.
This post helped me out when I was doing mine:
Sledgehammer worked for me on my 2008. But not one of those small ones. It took a full-sized sledge with the hub raised up.
Rafe said:
Sledgehammer worked for me on my 2008. But not one of those small ones. It took a full-sized sledge with the hub raised up.
Yeah, we finally got it out. Had to go full swing with the big hammer to make it happen.
Glad you got it sorted. I just finished both front bearings on my 08. This tool really helped and was totally worth it. Got the idea from Eric O from South Main Auto. Just remember to get the rear bolts off first.
These jobs really need some skill and the right tools. I got mine out with a hub puller. Wasn’t simple at all—some of the bolts in the back were hard to reach.
Tenzin said:
These jobs really need some skill and the right tools. I got mine out with a hub puller. Wasn’t simple at all—some of the bolts in the back were hard to reach.
I’ve already removed all the bolts. It’s just stuck tight from all the rust. Only one bolt rounded off and I had to cut it out.
My buddy and I are just DIY types, but we know a real mechanic with proper tools in case it gets worse.
Yeah, sounds like galvanic corrosion is doing its thing. I had some luck hitting inside the hub where the CV shaft comes through.
Otherwise, you’ll probably need a torch or an induction heater—or someone with a welder. Eric O does this trick where he welds a nut onto the hub and then threads a bolt in to pull the hub off.
When you install the new hub, put some anti-seize or waterproof grease on the outside. I used SuperLube. Makes it easier next time.
I used a cheap hub for mine just because the store was closing down, but if I had to do it again, I’d go with a better brand like BCA or OEM to avoid repeating this job.
@lorenza
Yep, I’m in the Chicago area—rust belt life. I wouldn’t be surprised if most of these parts come from the same factory. I got one branded by Pep Boys, but it’s probably no different than others on the shelf.
@Sal
Honestly, a lot of these store-brand hubs are from the same few suppliers. Sometimes you’re lucky and they hold up fine. But yeah, OEM or a solid aftermarket brand is safer if you don’t want to do it again in a year or two.
