Why is 2020 Tundra Oil Filter a Pain?

I would like to ask Toyota Engineers: What was wrong with the metal canister oil filters? I love my Tundras, but I have always HATED the new style filters. I had a dealership change the oil last time out of necessity, and this time I could NOT get the plastic cap off to replace the paper filter.

I started off with my filter wrench, and a 12” ratchet, and it wouldn’t budge. I then moved up to a cheater bar and still couldn’t get it. I finally had to move up to my impact wrench, and was very scared of breaking the housing. Luckily, it came off but even the impact struggled.

To get the filter wrench off, I had to put the cap in a bench vice and drive it off with a punch. I’m not sure if others have had this struggle, but I have always hated these filters. This was way more work than it had to be, and the complexity is getting beyond the average homeowner.


I totally agree that the new style filters are frustrating…next time try popping the oil fill cap or the dipstick to let some pressure off.

I came here to say how annoying the filter housings are. I broke off some of the ears on mine from my Tacoma before switching to a metal one. Also, that old craftsman impact looks pretty great, it’s clear it’s well used.

@Tanisha
I didn’t know there was a metal option. I’ll check that out. I’ve had my impact for years, got it as a Christmas gift from my parents. I really love my tools.

T.gwendew said:
@Tanisha
I didn’t know there was a metal option. I’ll check that out. I’ve had my impact for years, got it as a Christmas gift from my parents. I really love my tools.

Dorman makes those. The plastic housings can crack if you over tighten them. It’s PTFE plastic so cracks can happen over time.

@Zenith
Are the metal housings actually OEM Lexus parts?

I didn’t have the right tool for mine the first time. I ended up stabbing a hole in the OEM housing and used a screwdriver to get it off. I already planned on getting a metal housing and had it ready. I ordered the correct socket right after that. The key for me was having the metal housing and getting the torque right. 9 ft-lbs for the filter housing drain and 18 ft-lbs for the housing. I’ve had no issues unscrewing it by hand for two years, but I change my oil every 4-5 thousand miles.

@Tanisha
Which metal one did you buy?

@Tanisha
And when I say by hand, I mean with a wrench…sorry for the mix-up.

I’ve owned mine for five years. I change my own oil every 5,000 miles and use a torque wrench to tighten it right. Never had any issues.

T.gwendew said:
I’ve owned mine for five years. I change my own oil every 5,000 miles and use a torque wrench to tighten it right. Never had any issues.

Same here…just snug, not too tight! My 2010 Corolla has 400,000 miles on the same plastic housing and still going strong!

The first time I swapped the oil, I broke that filter housing. Switched to a metal one, but that one cracked after a few years too. I really dislike changing the oil on my truck because of this design. :weary_face:

@Tanisha
Not to mention you also have to take off the whole skid plate. That’s just silly.

T.gwendew said:
@Tanisha
Not to mention you also have to take off the whole skid plate. That’s just silly.

If you want a tougher skid plate, a few companies make them with oil filter windows. I have RCI skids and they’re pretty good. Plus, they curve around the drain pan plug.

These filter types can be a hassle. I swapped my Camry’s with the Toyota metal version, which helps a bit…

Get the MotivX filter housing cap; it doesn’t engage the housing by the grooves on top but at the bottom instead. If you put too much force on those ears (metal or plastic), you’re breaking them and risking a leak.

I’ve seen someone have to use a 30" 1/2 drive locking flex head ratchet to get a filter housing off more than once (they had a metal cap and broke one of the ears right off).

I never had issues with the one in my Tacoma because I always did the oil changes myself, making sure it was aligned with the tabs on the outside of the housing. Yours isn’t aligned, which typically leads to a stuck and broken filter housing.

Yeah, I have those same problems every time. I’ve started buying a spare filter housing so I can put in a new filter and deal with the old one later. And do not buy non-OEM filters, I had two brands from AutoZone get stuck on the center pole in the filter housing.

Yep, they exist. I think they are cast aluminum. I had to pick one up after cracking the plastic housing on my 2020 Tundra. Like you, I took it to a shop out of necessity, but when I tried it myself later, I couldn’t get it off. Eventually, I did, but long story short, the plastic broke and started leaking. I got a replacement at AutoZone but you can find OEM ones online too.

Edit: I meant to respond to a comment about metal filter housings. Long story short, you can buy a metal housing if your plastic one gets damaged.

My tip is to loosen the filter while the engine is still hot. I have no trouble with these filters and I actually prefer them. They are really cheap.